Australian Destinations - Outback Australia, Broken Hill, New South Wales
Visitor Info:
Broken Hill Visitor Centre
Phone: 08 8080 3560 cnr. Blende/Bromide Streets
Broken Hill - Page 1
By Ingrid Merrett
When we visited it was still cold and rainy, despite it being mid October. We warmed us with a coffee and watched with interest a group of cyclists arriving exhausted on to of the hill. Curious where they were from, I approached them outside and started a conversation. As it turned,out they “and their bikes” came to Broken Hill from Adelaide by train (THE GHAN, as the long distance passenger railway between Adelaide and Darwin is called) and they were determined to cycle back to Adelaide. We wished them lots of dry weather and headed to town to visit other attractions.
We were surprised to learn that Silverton (25 km NW of Broken Hill) and Broken Hill share more than 25 galleries and studios. The famous but controversial painter “Pro Hart” (Kevin Hart, died 2006) was based here – we decided to visit his 3 storey gallery first. Driving through the gate in the front yard we found 4 parking spots already taken by his collection of Rolls Royces and motorbikes. He was believed to be the father of the Australian outback painting movement, his works capturing the true spirit of the land. His pictures, tastefully displayed, were exhibited all over the world. The art left an impressing, lasting mark on us.
We thought it couldn't get any better – but little did we know!!!At another gallery we were about to gaze at the world's biggest acrylic painting on canvas – 100m long and 12m high!!
Peter Anderson took 2 years and 9 ton of paint to create this wonderful display, shown at
The Silver City Art Centre, 66 Chloride St., 08 80886166
Visitors view the painting from a timber platform, thus getting the impression of walking into the picture ($5 viewing fee).The overall presentation is fantastic, with sand, rocks, grass and animal figurines in front of the big screen to imitate the reality of the landscapes. In this Centre we also viewed brilliant minerals and exquisite silver and opal jewellery, handmade pottery and ceramic creations. Glass art came at affordable prices – however too fragile for our campervan!
The rest of the paintings, displayed all over the walls, were amazing – but too dear for our campervan!
We sampled one of the handmade chokies at the adjacent chocolate and fudge factory and left to visit the Albert Kersten Mining and Mineral Museum, Corner Crystal/Bromide St., 08 80803500
For a $5 entry fee you will be able to view, besides countless other items, the “Silver Tree”, an elaborate epergne, crafted in 1880 by Adelaide Silversmith Henry Steiner. We gazed in amazement at this lavishly decorated, immensely detailed work of art. 8.5 kg silver was used for this 66 cm tall showpiece.
Much more could be seen in this museum like a huge collection of mineral stones and mining equipment and.....a 42 kg silver nugget, looking like a pockmarked meteorite. Imagine - 42kg!!
Tourist Information
The drive from Adelaide to Broken Hill (ca 500km) led us along green rolling hills with endless wheat fields and yellow blossoming canola crops. Along the Barrier Hwy we passed Burra, an old copper mining town with historical buildings and pretty Cornish cottages, entirely protected by the National Trust Council. Today Burra supports pastoral and agricultural activities.
Broken Hill's more glamorous name “The Silver City” reflects on the rich vein of silver found here 130 years ago. With this discovery the “white fella” came to this country and the local Wiljakali people's traditional hunting life ended abruptly. Sheep and cattle forced out native animals and waterholes were fenced off, and “willyama”, the broken hill, was mined for precious ore.
The land was claimed by hundreds of prospectors and entrepreneurs.
Charles Rasp, a station hand, discovered the treasures in the earth on one of his fenceline patrol rides. With 6 other men he founded a syndicate (BHP) to mine the tin, silver, zinc and led, waiting in abundance to be unearthed. The 7.5 km silver vein (Line of Lode) was the biggest and richest in the world, eventually providing a fortune of 100's billions of dollars for the then mining giant BHP.
Broken Hill's population soared to 27000 at the turn of the 19th century. The presence of 60 hotels and taverns provided welcomed entertainment for the miners. Many miners endured gruelling long hours underground and needed some enjoyment. For many, sickness and accidents ended their lives too early. Water shortages and a harsh climate affected the pioneer families severely.
On our walk through Broken Hill's cemetery the gravestones told us their stories – people died young here!
We drove up the mullock hill that dissects Broken Hill, to the Miner's Memorial, a distinctly built construction to honour the lives of more than 900 miners lost, working along the Line of Lode. The neighbouring cafe presented us with a sweeping view over the city and the colonial buildings.
The richly decorated civic buildings offer a pleasant sight in contrast to some premises, still looking like they were built many decades ago and lacking maintenance. Some dwellings looked very unattractive with moss covering the roofs, damaged corrugated iron walls and backyards full of junk and old rusty cars parked there permanently.